
Curitiba, capital city of the Brazilian state of Paraná, with a metro area of 3.5 million is the fourth largest economic region in Brazil. It draws its name from the Tupi indian word meaning “big pines.” It's also a city of big urban visions, produced by a culture and form of social organization different from what one finds in the United States.
Brazil is accustomed to big change in short chunks of time. When JFK was planning the "New Frontier" president Juscelino Kubitcheck launched Brazil's Bossa Nova (new wave in Portuguese- the music was part of the marketing support for the plan, believe it or not) which moved the nation's capital from Rio to Brasilia and launched the Itaipu hydro complex, which provides 25% of Brazil's electric power, in just five years.
PBS Frontline and many experts on urbanization say Curitiba probably has the world's best public transportation system. Approximately 1,100 buses make 12,500 trips each day, moving 2 million commuters. Fuel efficient buses made in Brazil use 30% less fuel than those in other major Southern Hemisphere cities and make urban air quality the best among the nation's major metro areas. An amazing combination of vision and political will made a city with an average per capita income of $5,900 the model for public transport in metro LA, where the average Angelino pulls down $47,000/year.
Last month I visited Curitiba, taking a $30 250-mile bus ride from Piracicaba, the world's sugar and ethanol capital at the western end of the Sao Paulo megacity. Pira has the lush, tropical feeling one gets in the Louisiana sugar belt because it was settled by Confedrado refugees from the US War Between the States and Italians who didn't get to central casting for Bertoluccis's epic 1900. In sharp contrast, Curitiba is a cross between its sister city, Lyon, France and Los Angeles.
The Curitiba concept is actually a "street level subway" with triple articulated busses running on designated streets, stopping at long stations with pre-pay turnstiles where no money changes hands. Buses run on strict schedules people can count on, sometimes as frequently as every 90 seconds. And they move fast. When the bus enters into a traffic road, it gets a special lane. Motorists who wander into the lane get out of the way. Getting a ticket for not respecting the bus is a problem. Things like the Fraternal Order of Police Bumper Sticker and the annual bottle of Seagrams 7 aren't part of the culture.
Curitiba's original city master plan featured a star system of boulevards and arteries and was developed was developed by Alfred Agache, the doyen of French urban planners. But Brazil's frenetic economy and a long military interregnum caused this model to run out of gas. When the opening to democracy took place, architect and city planner Jaime Lerner ran for mayor and brought a new vision to Curitiba, with public transportation as its focus. Lerner would go on to become governor of Paraná state, the economic power in Brazil's European-like southern region.
By 1992 the transportation system had reached out to the extent that 41 percent of Curitiba's citizens were living within 3 blocks of a major city bus line. And while automobile commuters give the city an LA feel, the sustainablity index is more like Chicago, where the attitude is "business as usual." There is no celebration of sustainability here. It's taken for granted. Even Wal-Mart offers cotton shopping bags provided by employees who wear sustainability logo t-shirts. Just part of the daily life. Changes in latitude, changes in attitude.
What is different in Brazil is that, unlike the US or Canada, family units in most major metro areas rely on public transportation to commute to jobs, travel to school or to go shopping, to sporting events or cinema or other social after work activities. Many stores offer free home delivery. US style pickup trucks are used for what they were originally designed to do, not to reflect the "Scottsdale" or "Sonoma" lifestyle. Mobile homes and campers aren't part of the mix. When people migragte from one area of Brazil to another in search of job and career opportunities, it is on the bus.
Curitiba also serves as the model for the public transportation system in Bogota, Colombia and other cities in South Asia and Europe. But it is not without critics; some who filter Curitiba's achievements through the perspectives of their own mother culture, not Brazil's. Curitiba citizens are in general comfortable with this street level subway system and other efforts to make their city more sustainable. For the growing number of high density cities in powerful low income economies like Russia, India, China, and Indonesia the Curitiba model is as good as it gets.

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